You will receive one or more tracking numbers on the confirmation e-mail we send you once your order is shipped. This tracking number can be used to check the status of your package at our shipping carriers' online stores.
To return an item, contact our Customer Service Center at 1-800-977-DUFB (1-800-977-3832). Business Hours are M-F, 8:30-4:30 MST. One of us will be happy to assist you with your return.
Because these orders are made custom to your specifications, we will not accept returns for any reason other than manufacturing defects. We are happy to send you a sample of the fabric you are considering before you make your final decision. We are also available to answer any of your questions via email, or via telephone, prior to your purchase. In the case of manufacturing defects, the original product must be shipped back to the factory before replacements will be sent. The factory reserves the right to repair or replace defective products at their discretion.
Orders with international billing and/or shipping addresses can be processed through our website. However, we also have several other options available for our international customers outside of the U.S.
To place an order, please select one of the following options:
1. Order via phone: Our Customer Service Center can accept international purchases over the phone. The toll free number is 1-800-977-DUFB (1-800-977-3832) or you may call (303) 759-0732. You may view our website and call the office to place your order, at your convenience.
2. Have DUFB contact you: You also may choose to provide us with your telephone number and a convenient time for us to call (MST) and we will have a Customer Service Representative call you and process the order right over the phone.
3. Order via email: Select the items you wish to purchase from our website and email your order along with the following information to email@example.com:
We can call for a Credit Card or invoice through PayPal, just let us know in the content of the email.
Shipping costs are based on the total weight and size of the items you purchase. Once we receive your order, you will receive an email from our fulfillment department with the details of your order, the total charge including shipping and the estimated delivery time. At that time, we will verify all of your billing, shipping and credit card information. Please note that all customs, duty charges and applicable taxes are not included in this cost and are the responsibility of the recipient.
We are required by law to charge applicable sales tax on products shipped to those jurisdictions that levy such a tax and in which we have a physical location.
Swatches are small, about 2"x2". This is fine if you are looking for "solids" and/or are simply wanting to feel the texture. If you are ordering a print with a large repeat, we often send more than one swatch. If you would like larger swatches, call our Customer Service Center at 1-800-977-DUFB (1-800-977-3832).
We are an Internet retailer and therefore do not go to the expense of publishing a printed catalog. However, if you do not have a color printer and would like us to mail you a print of something we offer, simply email us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call our Customer Service Center at 1-800-977-DUFB (1-800-977-3832).
Over time, bed linen that is used frequently will naturally wear out towards the middle. Choosing regular, lesser-quality cotton sheets will make this happen even faster than one can imagine. This is because the fibers in regular cotton tend to be shorter, and repeated washings will begin to break down those shorter fibers.
You also may end up with what is called "pilling", which is a term used to describe what happens when you have small balls of cotton all over the place. This is because the poor sheets get spun around and agitated in the washer, and then baked in the dryer! You'd get tired too, right?
So how can you delay this breaking down and thinning of your bed linen?
Get the best type of cotton you can if it is really important that your sheets last a good five to ten years. Choose Pima or Egyptian cotton, and be careful to read about what other fibers may be present. Look for 100% Egyptian or 100% Pima cotton. The fibers in these cottons are much longer, stronger and flexible than regular run-of-the-mill cotton.
Also remember to follow the care instructions for all your bed linens. Heat from your dryer will hasten the breaking down of fibers. Keeping the dryer on low heat and taking everything out while still a bit damp will help preserve the life of your linens. Ideally, hanging sheets outside to dry is our best suggestion. They will smell wonderful and last a lot longer! Of course, this is not always feasible or possible.
One last note to have a better chance at getting your bed linen to last, look for thread counts of about 180 to 220. Anything much lower than 180 and you will soon be looking through your sheets! For more luxurious bed linens, look for thread counts between 220 and 400. You can, of course, go much higher than that. If budget is not a concern, then go for it! If you are trying to get the most value for the money out of your bedding, than anything much beyond 400 thread count is really not necessary, according to most expert opinions.
While you should always follow the directions on the bed linen labels for washing and care, most bed sheets, pillow cases and pillow shams are machine washable and machine dryable on warm. However, depending on the composition of the material, other care may be recommended. Certain fabrics such as 100% pure silk may require dry cleaning in order to maintain the fabric in top condition.
It is a very good idea, when buying bed linens of any type, to remove the care label and attach it to a sheet of paper along with the description of that particular bedding. This sheet can be attached to your linen closet wall so that you can answer any fabric care question by referring to the label for that particular bedding.
Wash in cool or lukewarm water that is less than 104 degrees F°
Set wash cycle on "gentle"
Use the extra rinse cycle, if available
Use less detergent -- about half the recommended amount
Avoid using bleach as it breaks down fabric fibers
Dry sheets in the dryer only until they are dry
Avoid over drying
Remove sheets from the dryer promptly and fold immediately
If sheets have cooled in the dryer and wrinkles have set, then tumble another 5-10 minutes with a washcloth that has been slightly dampened.
Thread count is the single most important point consumers should understand about sheets and the manufacturing process. On the front label, manufacturers will tell you the tread count of the sheets. This refers to the number of threads per square inch in both directions of the weave. The higher the thread count, the more luxurious the feel of a fabric. Usually, the higher the thread counts the smoother the surface of the fabric. Because they utilize finer yarns using more material, higher thread count sheets tend to be more expensive. However, higher thread counts extend the life of the fabric, so you may end up saving money in the long run by replacing your sheets less often. For good wear and to get the softest feel, it is suggested you choose a thread count above 250 but no lower than 175.
The thread count of the fabric determines its density, and that generally gives you a good gauge of its softness, although there are other factors that impact the softness of the fabric even more than its thread count. One such factor is "content." The content of percale can vary widely. Even a high thread count 60/40 percale blend won't be as soft or luxuriant as lower thread count 100% cotton. Also, a dark colored cotton percale will feel stiffer than a lighter colored percale with the same thread count (due to dye saturation). Even within cotton itself, there are many differences in grade. Just as grapes grown in certain regions are favored by wine connoisseurs over grapes grown in others, the quality of cotton can be estimated by its origin.
Our own domestic cotton is an excellent breed called "pima" cotton. This is long-staple cotton, and is relatively inexpensive, considering its high quality. The fertile Nile Valley, which also produces the same breed of Pima Cotton as the United States, calls their more luxuriant textile "Egyptian Cotton." With its longer, silkier, and thicker fibers, this cotton is woven into the absolute best percales. Unfortunately, since it must be imported from Egypt, and usually through Eastern European distributorships and plantation owners, it carries with it a heavy price tag. At the other end of the spectrum, some imported percales are very inexpensive, and for good reasons.
A combination of low thread count and high ratios of polyester to cotton causes these percales to rip easily, feel rough to the touch, and worst of all, pill. Pilling is that sand-paper feel that sheets can get after washing. If you find your sheets doing this, and are bothered by it, consider upgrading to a higher thread count, and better content. Though this may mean more expense, you really do get what you pay for. Often, you will see percale fabrics with a "sateen finish," which gives one side of the fabric a different satin-like texture and luster. This is achieved through a special elaborate process at the mill, where the fabric is woven. First, the fabric is woven in such a way that the threads are twisted on the front side of the fabric. Then, the fabric is "calendared" or passed under a steam-roller-like apparatus that applies 2000 lbs of pressure per square inch.
Combing is an extra step during the manufacturing process that reduces the amount of short, uneven fiber in the cotton, leaving the longer and stronger fibers for weaving.
Fibers that comprise the yarn for your bed linens would be longer, and stronger, when choosing Egyptian cotton (and U.S. Pima cotton, for that matter) over regular cotton. Egyptian cotton fibers tend to be about 1 3/8" long, whereas regular cotton fibers tend to be around one inch. Oh...I almost forgot... the Pima fibers are still more than an inch long; generally a very close second to its Egyptian cousin.
So why is this so important? A longer, stronger fiber will keep its strength and is easier to work with. The result is a softer, stronger fabric for your bedding. The reason it tends to be more expensive is that there is not as much of it grown, or available, as regular cottons. This bedding lasts longer, is softer and is more in demand.
You will find some excellent deals for Egyptian cotton bed linens online, where intense competition for your business makes you the winner!
The fact is that even just regular cotton sheets, pillowcases and duvet covers will work perfectly fine for a while. Just be sure to wash warm and do not dry them on high, and you will get more use out of them. When you are ready to pamper yourself...I mean spoil yourself rotten, then you will need to try that Egyptian or Pima cotton!
No, this is not true. Egyptian cotton is a species of cotton that has strong, long fibers, making it a very luxurious fiber for weaving into Egyptian cotton sheets. While pima cotton is also long fiber cotton and creates some very luxurious bedding, pima cotton is not exactly the same. Pima cotton is a grade of cotton regardless of where it is grown, while Egyptian cotton is a specific strain of cotton, grown primarily in Egypt.
Egyptian cotton, grown in the Nile Valley, is a long staple fiber famous for its lush feel and soft drape. It is often blended with lower grade cottons, so look for 100% Egyptian to get the ultimate quality*.
*All of our products are guaranteed 100% Egyptian Cotton.
There are advantages to each type of fabric. Polyester tends to provide a wrinkle-free sheet and is soft hand, whereas cotton provides a crisp, cool feeling.
Polyester/cotton blends are often chosen because they can include the best of both worlds. Polyester, however, can pill over time and after many launderings. Cotton does not have this problem and will remain crisp for years. Cotton tends to gain softer hands over many launderings and is well loved for this factor.
Run a tape from the top edge down to the top of the foundation (i.e., box spring). If you have a pillow top, look across the top of the mattress from the side and if you see a "crown" that is higher in the center. If so, you may want to add an inch or two to the depth.
This is not really necessary as our manufacturer allows for this (depending on the fabric used) when they cut the sheets. If you still want to add to the depth, make it about no more than one inch.
Note: If you have a foam, Tempur-pedic, or square cornered mattress, you need to add 1 to 2 inches to your measurement.
Aside from its use as a verb, the "drop" can refer to four things in the linen industry.
First, it can mean the distance from the top of the bed to the floor, where bedspreads are concerned. A bedspread's finished width is equal to the bed's width, plus twice the drop. Its length is equal to the bed's length, plus the drop, plus 19 inches for a pillow tuck.
Secondly, a "drop" for a coverlet or a comforter means the distance from the top of the bed to however far down on each side you want the item to go. With the new thicker mattresses, comforter and coverlet drops now vary slightly from the traditional 15".
Thirdly, when discussing bed skirts, the drop refers to the distance from the top of the box spring (or foundation), to the floor.
Lastly, and the one we refer to the most, is the depth of the fitted mattress, from the top side to bottom side of the mattress.
Sateen refers to the weaving process of the fabric used to create these soft, silky sheets, and not the type of thread used. Using a weaving pattern of one thread under and four threads over, more threads are placed on the top side of the weave that creates the sheet, giving it that very luxurious feeling. Sateen bedding has a silky feel and a shiny appearance; it looks very much like satin. However, unlike satin, sateen sheets do not tend to crawl off the mattress nor are they as slippery feeling. This smooth bedding choice may not be as durable as other weaves, but it feels so good next to your skin. The most popular content for sateen sheets is 100% cotton, but you will also find these linens in cotton/polyester blends and 100% polyester.
Though many people assume that "percale" means a polyester-cotton blend, this is untrue. A percale can be made of 100% cotton, 100% polyester, or any combination in between. Percale fabric begins its life as two sets of undid, interwoven threads, known as a "greycloth" that will later have its color and pattern "sprayed" on. The "thread count" of a percale fabric is found by counting the threads going in both directions inside one square inch of the fabric.
After multiple launderings, some fabrics will allow loose fibers to bunch up, resulting in a pill-like bump on the fabric. In the case of polyester, this is caused by the breakdown of the polyester. In bedding, the resultant pills can feel much like sleeping on sand. A common cause of pilling is washing linens in water that is too hot. Be sure to purchase quality fabrics and always follow manufacturer's directions to ensure your linens do not pill.
The worst offender for getting pills (those little annoying balls of worn fabric), are the cotton/polyester blends with a low thread count. Conversely, 100% cotton sheets with a higher thread count will not be as likely to pill.
Yes, there are differences between fitted sheets for conventional beds and fitted sheets for adjustable beds. There are fitted sheets made to properly fit standard mattresses and fitted sheets made to properly fit deep pocket mattresses. Our fitted sheets with elastic that goes all the way around the bottom of the fitted sheet, which is what we use at DoubleUps, rather than just at the corner. We also have fitted sheets made especially for adjustable beds that are designed with wings to allow the bed to flex up and down without the sides popping off.
The best kind of fitted sheet for you depends upon what mattress you have and your personal preferences. If you find that fitted sheets do not stay well on the mattress, consider the type with elastic all the way around. If you have a deep pocket mattress, buy only fitted sheets that are made for that type of mattress. Likewise, if you have a standard mattress, it is important to buy only fitted sheets that fit that mattress style.
None are specifically made for waterbeds or sofa beds. However, our regular sized mattress pads should fit your waterbed or your sofa bed.
The best mattress pads are extra thick, guaranteed to fit wrap style. They provide the most comfort for you and the best protection for your mattress...certainly worth the investment.
A pillowcase is a piece of bedding, open on one end, into which a pillow is inserted. A pillow sham, on the other hand, normally has a slit in the back where the pillow is inserted. Pillow shams frequently have ruffles around all four edges, or other embellishments. Pillowcases usually limit embellishments to ruffles on the end or piping around the hem at the open end.
A Velcro attached bed skirt comes as a long strip, rather than a square. The bed skirt attaches to the side of the foundation or waterbed frame with a strip of Velcro "loop" that is sewn along its top edge. The "hook" component of the Velcro is provided separately in small strips for the consumer to attach to the bed foundation in any number of ways, including hot glue, staples, tacks, or any other method preferred. This variation of the bed skirt is easier to install and remove for cleaning, and is the only option when moving the mattress to insert a platform is impossible.
The platform attached bed skirt is made with a rectangle of plain (usually cotton) fabric, slightly smaller than the mattress size, around which the visible part of the bed skirt hangs on three sides. This version of the bed skirt tends to have a more appealing appearance than the Velcro attached variety, just as a Windsor knot looks better than a clip-on tie. The disadvantage is the same as the cravat, in that it is more difficult to install and remove, especially if the mattress is extremely heavy. Platform attached bed skirts are generally used more than the Velcro attached ones.
A duvet cover is somewhat like an envelope in which you place a comforter, blanket or quilt in order to protect your fine bedding. The duvet cover can be easily removed for dry cleaning or machine washing, depending on the manufacturer's care instructions. The inner bedding will stay clean much longer and the duvet cover will prevent wear and tear. Most duvet covers close by snapping or buttoning, while others may have decorative tie closures to hold the inner bedding inside. Duvet covers are available in all bedding sizes and many different fabrics and designs to fit any décor.
A comforter is a bed covering that is quilted and reversible. Traditionally, it drops 15" over the edge of the bed at the foot and sides, and covers the top of the bed completely. Most are filled with bonded polyester fill.
A duvet cover is, quite simply, a cover that goes over your comforter. Some people, who do not know any better, will simply call this item a "duvet" instead of a "duvet cover." The duvet cover is basically a hollow comforter that opens at one end and has a Velcro closure. A comforter is placed inside of it and removed whenever laundering is required. It is useful to achieve a loose, unquoted and "frumpy" look to the bed, or to protect a non-washable comforter. The reverse is also true. When a person wants to display a non-washable designer fabric during the day, but actually sleep under a washable comforter at night, the duvet cover is the perfect solution. A duvet cover also helps protect against the sometimes-spiny protrusions that work themselves through a down comforter from time to time. People also use several duvet covers with one comforter to alter the look of the room without the cost and space required for several comforters. In the case of conventional beds, a bedspread covers the entire bed: from the pillows to the floor (the "drop" is usually about 21").
Unlike a comforter, a bedspread is not reversible and is much larger.
A coverlet is similar to a bedspread in that it has a cotton backing and is not reversible.
The answer to this question is a matter of personal choice. A foam pillow will not last nearly as long as a down pillow and must be replaced every two years. However, many allergy sufferers prefer the foam pillows over down pillows. Selecting a good quality of foam interior is important to prevent foam breakdown even sooner than two years. Foam pillows can be found in different degrees of firmness. Foam pillows offer support and the foam interior will not move about inside the pillow as much as down.
Down pillows provide a soft, luxurious feel and can be found in different firmness factors from soft to hard. Pillows made of 100% down must be encased in excellent quality ticking to prevent down from "leaking" out of the pillow. The down pillow can be shaped under your body into the exact position and contour you prefer.
But the choice remains yours. Both selections have their place in the bedroom depending on your needs and desires.
Yes, there are allergy free down pillows available. The down used in these pillows is hyper-clean, having gone through processes which clean all the dander and microscopic particle from the down. The down is then encased in a leak-proof ticking to ensure that the pillow is effective for the allergy sufferer. Most people with serious allergy problems will still use an allergy-proof, dust mite proof pillow cover for additional protection. But there is no reason that a person with allergies cannot enjoy the comfort and softness of a luxurious down pillow.
With normal use and care, a natural fill pillow can last up to 10 years. A synthetic pillow, on the other hand, does not usually exceed a couple of years. Depending on your habits, someone who tosses and turns all night will be harder on his pillow than a gentle sleeper.
Down is the undercoat of the bird that traps warm air next to the bird's skin. Ever wonder why the ducks are warm in the winter and cool and comfortable in the summer? Down is the reason. Unlike feathers, down isn't flat and doesn't contain that crunchy, uncomfortable quill.